The power of symbols : Highlights of the last quarter – 12.12

The new Rolex building which concentrates all the sites previously scattered across Biel into its 92,000 m2

 

A single step and Félix Baumgartner falls through the stratosphere, with a Zenith watch on his wrist, watched by millions of people around the world.

Symbols make an impression and hit the headlines. When Felix Baumgartner jumped from his capsule in a free fall from an altitude of 39,045 metres, he became the first man to break the sound barrier outside of a cockpit. With his Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th on his wrist, he was watched by millions of spectators on media all over the world. Jumping into the unknown, an individual on his own confronting doubt and danger made an impression on the entire planet. Conversely, nobody messes with Swiss symbols without facing the consequences. Electronic giant, Apple, paid the price when it included a clock based on the famous Swiss railways clock in its iPhone 5 without giving credits where they were due. A friendly deal was subsequently struck governing the use of this embodiment of the legendary precision of Swiss trains.

 

Openness

Conveying another symbol, this time of openness and power, Rolex inaugurated a new building in Bienne. This was a triple whammy. Firstly, because the brand has thus moved all manufacturing of its movements into its new 92,000 square-metre facility. Secondly, because the building shows off the sheer power of the world leader. And finally, because it had invited journalists to the opening ceremony followed by a tour of the premises – a rare event indeed, as the watch industry’s most secretive brand exceptionally opens its doors.

 

Reward

What could be more symbolic than to receive an official award? It is embodied in a totem, crowns an exceptional success and promotes the renown of the recipient. At the 12th Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, TAG Heuer was rewarded for its ultra high-frequency Mikrogirder. Winner of the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix, this model representes the culmination of several years of innovation. Moreover, yet another symbol lies hidden behind this particular one. A look at the list of other winners in this year’s Grand Prix demonstrates the jury’s independence in making its decisions. Openness and inventiveness were the big winners of this evening, in a message that was also symbolically addressed to the rest of the watch industry.

 

Independance

Embodying another fundamental trend in contemporary watchmaking, the quest for independence produces its effects all over the place. Whether Jaeger-LeCoultre in Paris, Patek Philippe in Shanghai, Roger Dubuis and A. Lange & Söhne in Dubaï, Glashütte Original in Dresde, TAG Heuer in Geneva or Cartier and Vacheron Constantin in Lucerne, monobrand boutiques are definitely on a roll. However, doubtless the most eagerly awaited form of independence concerns the manufacturing of movements, including the most basic. Chopard continues to develop in-house made calibres and is introducing three new movements equipping its Superfast line. Parallel to this and under the leadership of Georges-Henri Meylan, former CEO of Audemars Piguet, MELB Holding has taken over the Hautlence and H. Moser & Cie brands, including the latter’s production of regulating balance-springs. This can only lead to a further increase in watchmaking diversity, which naturally requires more than just symbols.


Journaliste expert en horlogerie et correspondant régulier de WorldTempus, David alimente notre rubrique technique.

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