Serpenti Skin pink gold
Case : pink gold (also available in pink gold and stainless steel, with bezel set with brilliant cut diamonds), solid caseback, water-resistant to 50m
Diameter : 27mm
Movement : quartz (B033)
Functions : hours, minutes
Dial : lacquered and guillloché-worked ; white, black, red or green
Strap : sold with an easily interchangeable strap in calfskin (blue, beige, white, black, red or green) secured by a pin buckle, and another in karung (white, black, red, green or hazelnut brown)

Octo Finissimo Platinum Tourbillon Skeleton
Case : platinum, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m
Diameter : 40mm
Movement : mechanical self-winding (Caliber BVL 266 Finissimo, 60h power reserve), Côtes de Genève motif, beveled bridges and circular-grained mainplate, 1.95mm thick
Funcations : hours, minutes, flying tourbillon
Dial : skeleton-worked
Strap : black alligator leather with stainless steel pin buckle

Octo Finissimo Automatic
Case : sandblasted titanium, titanium crown with ceramic insert, sapphire caseback, waterresistant to 30m
Diamter : 40mm (5.15mm thick)
Movement : world’s thinnest mechanical self-winding (Caliber BVL 138 Finissimo, 60h power reserve), Côtes de Genève motif, beveled bridges and circular-grained mainplate, 2.23mm thick
Functions : hours, minutes, small seconds
Dial : titanium, black PVDtreated hands
Bracelet/Strap : titanium with folding clasp, or black alligator leather with titanium pin buckle

For Guido Terreni, Managing Director Watches at Bulgari, the brand’s aesthetic power results in watch and jewelry creations venturing off the beaten track and drives its artisans to do their very best. An exclusive interview.

Are clients convinced by Bulgari’s growing stature in the field of ultra-thin models ?

Definitely, but it’s not just a question of positioning Bulgari in this field ; we have in fact undertaken to bring something new to the world of ultrathin horology. This market segment had remained extremely conservative in terms of its aesthetic codes, which correspond to executions and style features dating back 60 or 70 years. As an Italian brand with a vision to promote contemporary beauty, Bulgari wanted to break free of this rigid DNA and to given men wishing to take elegance to the next level a chance to appreciate ultra-thin timepieces designed for daily wear. That’s why we had to begin by developing a movement in a process that lasted from 2011 to its world record-breaking launch in 2014. This was the longest development period required for any of the three world records Bulgari has set to date in this field. With the Octo Finissimo Automatic presented at Baselworld 2017, we opted for an extremely strong and masculine aesthetic approach by attiring it in sandblasted titanium, thus endowing this aesthetic choice with a distinct sense of power, as well as a fantastic feel on the wrist since it weighs just 45 grams with its alligator strap, and around 70 grams with a titanium bracelet.

What added value does the Manufacture bring to the Bulgari brand ?

The watch clientele has evolved considerably in recent times. We have emerged from the quartz crisis and also from the 1990s – a period during which one could opt to remain a luxury brand with a beautiful design that merely assembled outsourced components. These days, if a luxury brand wants to be a winner in the high-end watch industry, it must be credible and master the expertise that is a fundamental element of luxury. We have developed our own specific know-how in achieving impressive thinness. Our aesthetic approach is so advanced that it had to be matched by exceptional production expertise, representing a combination that is pretty unique in the industry : here at Bulgari, technical savoir-faire is dedicated to aesthetics. Featuring the world’s thinnest tourbillon, the Octo Finissimo embodies a radical choice and is incomparable with any other watch, a strong driver in its success. Depending on the various limited editions, between 100 and 200 are sold per year. The results are even more remarkable for the world’s thinnest minute repeater, of which we sold 50 last year, but demand was far superior. More affordable but equally appealing models such as the new Octo Roma enable us to respond to this.

Within the extremely broad feminine range, which line particularly stands out this year ?

When evoking Bulgari and its jewelry roots, one immediately thinks of the Serpenti collection, which was initially jewelry and has now become a watch collection. Thanks to our authentic out-of-the-box ideas, combined with a strong brand connection, we are enjoying incredible success. The mythology of the snake was brought to Rome by Cleopatra, probably the most seductive woman in all of history, who lived more than two millennia ago. It has for example nurtured the brand’s creativity for 80 years, while offering an extremely sensual way of wearing a watch. The Serpenti has thus become a seductive icon. This year, we have interpreted it in an original and significant way. On the one hand, by attiring it in karung (watersnake) skin, which lends itself extremely well to the Serpenti case ; and on the other, by responding to women’s growing desire to personalize their watch. To create this sense of uniqueness, it is now possible in all our boutiques to choose one’s dial, colors, setting, case materials, the engraving on the back and the strap – from around 312 potential combinations. As the icing on the cake, this degree of customization is eminently affordable, with a quality/price ratio never yet seen in the luxury industry.

Octo Roma
Case : pink gold, ratcheted bezel with ceramic insert, sapphire caseback, waterresistant to 30m
Diameter : 41mm (5.15mm thick)
Movement : mechanical self-winding (BVL Caliber 191 Solotempo, 42h power reserve), Côtes de Genève motif, chamfered bridges and circular grained manipulate
Functions : hours, minutes, seconds, date
Dial : chocolate brown
Strap : black or chestnut brown alligator leather with gold pin buckle

Octo Finissimo Automatic : Good things come in threes

Over the past few years, Bulgari has become part of the select circle of watch brands that create a buzz at Baselworld, as was once again the case this year with the Octo Finissimo Automatic, which set the much-coveted record of the world’s thinnest self-winding watch : its 2.23mm thick movement fits perfectly inside an ultra-thin (Finissimo !) case measuring just 5.15mm thick. This is the third world record for the House, after the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in 2014, and the splendid Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater which was a finalist in last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

Ultra-thinness is a horological complication in its own right. As one would expect at this level of watchmaking quality, this 2017 new model is equipped with an in-house movement, featuring a platinum micro-rotor and sufficiently powerful despite its slenderness to provide 60 hours of running autonomy. The caliber decoration may be admired through the sapphire crystal back of the titanium case, in which the harmonious combination of volumes and shapes is a definite plus for this paragon of contemporary watch design. The sensory pleasure exuded by the Octo Finissimo Automatic includes an undeniable tactile appeal, notably in its titanium bracelet version : the playful and sensual caress of its astonishingly supple articulated link is stunningly light. Its value for money in no way detracts from its seductive powers, on the contrary.

Customizing your Serpenti to give it an even stronger personality

The 312 metamorphoses of the Serpenti

After its grand launch at Baselworld, the new Serpenti watch line appeals by its versatility, its insatiable thirst for personalization, and its ingenious ability to reinvent itself across the years. A symbol of perpetual regeneration through its successive changes of skin, the snake has endowed the new Serpenti with its transformational nature : extreme personalization (see box), a wealth of dial colors, delivery with two interchangeable double tour bands in exotic colored leathers. In gold or steel, gemset or not, the new Serpenti models switch strap in the blink of an eye. Each model is thus sold with a calfskin strap (available in a broad range of colors) and a brand-new one in karung (with a similarly wide chromatic choice) – a watersnake known for its particularly supple skin, mid-way between lizard and snake. Particularly meticulous craftsmanship in the Bulgari workshops makes it particularly pleasant to wear, while its varnish effectively protects it from the effects of time. Its shades of color are coordinated with the lacquered and guilloché-worked dial-base colors : black, green, red or white.

Lvcea has become one of the most widely apreciated identity-defining collections worldwide.

In tribute to Bulgari’s Roman history, the Lvcea collection launched in 2014 evokes ancient sundials by means of an aesthetic capturing the power of light, luce in Italian. Its “day and night” style quickly made it a favorite among celebrities, whether for wearing on the red carpet or in the street. As is often the case with Bulgari models, the watch is as gentle and graceful as it is powerful and sophisticated. Its inimitable style serves to link past and present, while Italian pragmatism effectively combines function with design. For Guido Terreni, the head of Bulgari watches : “We were looking to create a sustainable product with an extremely powerful design, as well as one that was simple, frill-free and extremely versatile. LVCEA perfectly illustrates the culture and flair for details characterizing our jewelry, interpreted in accordance with Swiss watch industry standards and in line with the brand aesthetic.” Meanwhile, the collection designer, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, insists on its nature as an “authentic expression of Italian culture and know-how. It is the essence of creativity !” As far as he is concerned, “the name Lvcea suggests a burst of life and joy, in this creation representing good taste as well as erudition.”

Now comprising dozens of references, the Lvcea collection is enriched each year with new models across all price segments. In 2017, this diversity is expressed both through the Lvcea Moon Phase in gold and steel and the Lvcea Tourbillon Jade. The former is distinguished by a generous moon-phase display in the upper half of the dial, in which the color of the sky matches that of the strap, and that of the moon matches the case material. Various degrees of setting accompany the choice of white gold, pink gold or two-tone finishing, interpreted in three case sizes. Women are spoilt for choice ! Nor is Haute Horlogerie forgotten in the Lvcea collection, of which the Tourbillon model with jade dial reflects both a love of nature and the perfect alliance between the two professions in which Bulgari excels : watchmaking and jewelry-making. Diamonds sparkle on the fascinating jade dial as well as on the bezel and lugs of the watch (also available with a purple ruby dial), which further highlight the cabochon-cut pink stone on the crown, itself tipped with a brilliant-cut diamond. The mechanical self-winding Manufacture movement driving the tourbillon can be admired through the sapphire caseback of this fabulous creation.

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