De Bethune : World-exclusive understatement

Tourbillon Régulateur DB16
Case : platinum, cone-shaped lugs, sapphire back Diameter : 43mm Movement : mechanical hand-wound (Calibre DB2509, 96h power reserve), 499 parts, 30” silicon/titanium 36,000 vph tourbillon, hand-crafted finishing and decoration including Côtes de Genève, 7 patents (see text) Functions : hours, minutes, jumping seconds, date, perpetual calendar, spherical moon-phase indicator, age of the moon and leap years, tourbillon with 30” display of the seconds, power-reserve indication Dial : silver-toned with radiating hand-crafted guilloché pattern Water resistance : 30m Strap : extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle 5-piece limited series

Great news for collectors : the Tourbillon Régulateur DB16 now comes in a five-piece platinum run. This relatively understated exterior contrasts with the extraordinary horological content of this perpetual calendar with deadbeat seconds model, of which the 30-second silicon and titanium tourbillon beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour is visible only through the case-back. This demurely concealed marvel is even more impressive when one considers that its 63 parts weigh just 0.18 grams. By way of a reminder, this model epitomising the expertise of the De Bethune R&D lab is protected by no less than seven patents : on the front, its famous spherical moon-phase indication and the central jumping seconds ; and on the back a self-regulating double barrel, a silicon and white gold balance-wheel with a flat terminal curve, a 30-second silicon-titanium De Bethune 36,000 vph tourbillon in silicon and titanium, a silicon escape-wheel, and a retrograde age-of-the-moon indication. An expert eye will note at first glance the iconic De Bethune cone-shaped lugs, as well as the hand-polished and flame-blued curved steel hands.


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

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