Patek Philippe : Elegance enthroned

Calatrava Ref 5123

Case : 18K rose gold featuring an unusual two-part design (7.6 mm thick) Diameter : 38 mm Movement : ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound (44h power reserve, 2.55mm thick), 130 parts, hand-bevelled bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève and enhanced by gilded engravings Functions : hours, minutes, small seconds Dial : opaline silver-toned, slightly cambered, beaded gold minute circle, 13 applied  baton-type facetted hour-markers in 18-carat rose gold Water resistance : 30m Strap : hand-sewn matt dark brown alligator leather with large square scales, 18-carat rose gold pin buckle

The star of the GMT XXL Swiss edition of which it graced the cover page, the reference 5123 celebrates the 80th anniversary of the legendary Calatrava and symbolises the passing on of the torch between Philippe Stern and his son Thierry at the helm of the prestigious Geneva-based watch company. Loyal to the House philosophy of delighting fine watchmaking connoisseurs with timepieces that are as slender and elegant as possible, this new release for 2012 takes the shape of a two-part case that is extremely complex to make and inspired by a 1950 Calatrava. The upper part plays the role of a bezel to fix the sapphire crystal which is convex on both sides, while the inner part incorporates the sapphire crystal and the strap attachments so that the strap bars almost entirely disappear beneath the case. Aesthetes will note this detail that highlights the perfect circle of the case due to the absence of any gap between the ends of the strap and the patiently polished rose gold case. This understated masterpiece, with its dial exclusively dedicated to the passing of time, is endowed with extreme precision and reliability thanks to the legendary Manufacture Patek Philippe Calibre 215 PS, of which the 130 parts are entirely crafted and assembled according to the standards laid down by the Patek Philippe Seal.


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

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