Cyrus : DNA made of exclusivity, identity and innovation

Kuros 598.101.A Worldwide patented design Case : DLC-treated titanium, engraved back (see text) with opening revealing the movement escapement, left-hand crown with a secret drawer indicating the series number. Size : 44mm Movement : mechanical self-winding (ETA base calibre 2094 with 316 parts, 37-hour power reserve), black DLC-treated personalised oscillating weight Functions : hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date at 12 o’clock Dial : black. Hours shown by raised 3D numerals with superluminova interior, toric sapphire crystal Water-resistance : 50m Strap : rubber with red “rubber stitches”, DLC-treated titanium folding clasp Limited serie: 188

 

Kuros 598.201.A Worldwide patented design Case : titanium and 5N red gold, back engraved with red gold stater (see text), with opening revealing the movement escapement, left-hand red gold crown with a secret drawer indicating the series number. Size : 44mm Movement : mechanical self-winding (ETA base calibre 2094 with 316 parts, 37-hour power reserve), black DLC-treated personalised oscillating weight Functions : hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date at 12 o’clock Dial : black or silver. Hours shown by raised 3D numerals with superluminova interior, toric sapphire crystal Water-resistance : 50m Strap :crocodile leather or rubber with titanium folding clasp Limited serie:188

Presented at the Geneva Time Exhibition 2011 by Julien and Laurent Lecamp, the two collections from the recently launched Cyrus brand have already earned their first distinctions : Shanghai Times magazine awarded the Kuros model 3rd prize in the Design category of its Watch Oscars, while the Klepcys model won the 4th prize in the Complication category. It should be said that its movement was developed by Jean-François Mojon, who won the Best Watchmaker award at the 2010 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, and that the design of the cases has been patented worldwide after three years of R&D. In June Cyrus was also elected best independent brand at the “Nuit de l’Horlogerie”, a very exclusive watch exhibition (and competition) based in Monaco and gathering key collectors and watch aficionados from different countries. So what’s the explanation behind such an enthusiastic reception right from the time of the brand launch, as well as such keen commitment on the part of its founders ?
The modern, nonconformist style of Cyrus is intrinsically bound up with the personality and background its founders : backed by a major
private investor looking to the long term, an architect and a watch marketing specialist belonging to the same family and having acquired complementary international experience decided to create a concept brand with two key dimensions. The product dimension makes it an instantly identifiable brand, while the historical dimension enables it to serve as a bridge in time between ancient Babylon and an unquantifiable, mysterious future. The near future of Cyrus definitely looks set to resemble the opulent past of Cresus (the rich king who attacked Cyrus and was defeated by the latter before becoming his confidant) : the substantial investments made in the brand development not only relate to R&D and worldwide patent registrations, but also to the construction of a production facility in Le Locle, a website in  11 languages, as well as sponsoring the Star Team Monaco in 2012.
The case of the Kuros collection was tested on 500 wrists in order to ensure it was universally ergonomic, and then duly patented. As Laurent Lecamp explains, “it carries us back to the past and forward to the future without being sure whether it’s the scarab beetle look or the concept car connotations that predominate.” The sense of enduring harmony it exudes is reinforced by the power of the lugs firmly protecting the milled crown and pushpieces and thus enclasping the watch before flowing along each side of the wrist, as well as merging into a crocodile leather or rubber strap with a highly innovative design. The flair for design is also accentuated by the crown at 9 o’clock that plays a twin role: on the one hand of ensuring symmetry; and on the other of providing an indication regarding the limited series thanks to a small plate screwed over the lower part and which secretly reveals the exact number of the timepiece (1 to 188) when the crown is pulled to the left. Another secret for the owner’s eyes only is the gold stater (ancient coin) engraved on the case-back (in the gold version) exactly reproducing an original stater made during the reign of Cyrus and doubtless the very first currency to be circulated. “Share the values of CYRUS THE GREAT, the powerful conqueror, considered as the precursor of human rights. His spirit of conquest is still living in this timepiece. Be part of it.” That’s the message engraved around the coin right next to the opening on to the movement escapement.
Coming back to the front of this self-winding chronograph with date display, the dial background has been the object of particular care and craftsmanship. It features a motif composed of nested triangles, with their three sides echoing the three branches of the Cyrus logo. Its raised 3D hour-marker and its superluminova-treated hands ensure excellent readability by day and night. Accurate reading of the chronograph hour and minute displays is further enhanced by an indicator at 04:30 pointing in both directions, all topped by a toric sapphire crystal (cambered along the 12-6 and 9-3 axes).

 

Babylon : An intellectual and scientific capital of the ancient world. This city embodying great material wealth and carrying powerful spiritual connotations was renowned for its magnificent architecture. Although considered impregnable, it was nonetheless conquered by Cyrus the Great 2,500 years ago. Contrary to military custom of the time, he decided to preserve this gem from destruction. Its famous hanging gardens and its huge seven-storey tower, known as the “House of the Foundation of Heaven and Earth”, inspired the founders of Cyrus and the movement design engineer Jean-François Mojon in creating the Klepcys model, a patented timepiece featuring three exceptional functions and an avant-garde design. The architecture of the case in DLC-treated titanium and white gold, or full 5N red gold, asserts a powerful presence with its 48mm diameter (including the crowns) as well as four ramparts in the form of highly sophisticated lugs surrounding the main body of the timepiece. These bevelled lugs perfectly mould the curve of the wrist and merge into a black crocodile leather strap. A double message is addressed to the owner through the inscriptions on the case-back : a first stating that the watch is “Proudly made for demanding people” and, a second around the ancient stater coin : “… Babylon is a city-state with a unique architecture and gathering all the technical and intellectual know-how of its time…”

This know-how is expressed through an original triple complication. Firstly, the retrograde hour hand which moves across a 180° axis and changes colour (by a 90° rotation) in order to indicate day or night. Whatever the position of the hour hand, the minute and seconds discs are always lined up with it and indicate time in linear read-off mode. This alignment, based on a mechanism that is unique in the world and regulates the speed of the gear trains for the hours (which are retrograde and pivoting) as well as the minutes and seconds, is duly patented – as indeed is the date. The numerals indicating the units of the date (from 0 to 9) are static and follow on from each other and only the tens move past the units. Each time a ten numeral reaches the figure 9, the ten becomes retrograde and pivots 90 degrees to leave room for the following ten which takes its place in front of the 0 units number. And finally, inspired by the fabulous temple tower of Babylon, a spherical moon-phase display with representation of craters of the moon serves to connect this timepiece with the sky. The moon phases are shown by the progressive rising of a black cover that gradually enshrouds the spherical moon. A unique time piece based on innovation, exclusivity and strong identity. Only available in red gold or white gold/DLC-treated titanium.

 

Klepcys 539.001.A Worldwide patented functions and design
CASE : 5N red gold, back engraved with a stater in red gold (see text).  SIZE : 48mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (CYR598 with 456 parts, 40-hour power reserve), ceramic ball-bearing mechanism without lubrification. FUNCTIONS : linear display of retrograde hour along a mobile axis, day/night indication, retrograde large date with three-dimensional rotating tens, spherical moon with moon-phase indication by the gradual rising of a dedicated cover. STRAP : crocodile leather with 5N red gold folding clasp or 5N red gold ardillon buckle WATER RESISTANCE : 30m LIMITED SERIES : 33 pieces in red gold


Brice Lechevalier is editor-in-chief of GMT and Skippers, which he co-founded in 2000 and 2001 respectively. He has also been CEO of WorldTempus since it joined the GMT Publishing stable, of which he is director and joint shareholder. In 2012 he created the Geneva Watch Tour, and he has been an advisor to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève since 2011. Also closely involved in sailing, he has published the magazine of the Société Nautique de Genève since 2003, and was one of the founders of the SUI Sailing Awards in 2009 and the Concours d’Elégance for motor boats at the Cannes Yachting Festival in 2015.

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