In 2012 Patek Philippe has launched new grand complication models (the Ref. 5204 Split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar and the Ref. 5940 Ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar), but has also enriched two of its iconic collections. On the classical side, the new Calatrava reaches a new paragon of sleek elegance. The timeless design of the round case with the smooth bezel was inspired by a late-1950s model with a slender, graceful silhouette. The manually wound movement can be admired through the display back. On the sports side, the Nautilus in steel shows off a new casually elegant face with a silvery-white dial that highlights the horizontally embossed pattern, a typical style element of this model family. For aficionados of this cult watch launched in 1976, it is an irresistible design variation. The contoured case, water resistant to 120 meters, incorporates a self-winding mechanical movement (Ref. 5711/1 A) and/or a chronograph (Ref. 5980/1A).
The new Ref. 5204 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar is crafted with all meticulous attention to detail mandated by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. Despite the complexity of the elaborate going train, the split-seconds chronograph, and the perpetual calendar, the well-organized dial presents the twelve separate indications with exemplary clarity and legibility. True to tradition, the day of the week and the month are displayed in two in-line apertures beneath 12 o’clock. The analog date dial at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon phases display. The continuous subsidiary seconds and the jumping 30-minute chronograph counter are located at 9 and 3 o’clock, respectively, in dials whose centers are shifted slightly below the horizontal centerline of the main dial. This layout is a typical design feature of the movement. The small round aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock indicates the leap-year cycle, and a second one between 7 and 8 o’clock accommodates the day/night indicator.
All the traditional assets that impress true connoisseurs are strengthened by the perpetual calendar presented to the world in 2011 in the Ref. 5270 and by its caliber with six patented innovations: optimized toothing profile, precision adjustment of engagement depth at the column wheel, optimized synchronization of the clutch lever and brake lever, slotted minute-counter cam, self-setting hammers, hammers pivoted between jewel bearings.
Besides, with Patek Philippe’s quest for perfection, the workshops’ caliber engineers developed two innovative solutions to improve the reliability of the split-seconds chronograph mechanism, for which a patent application has been filed. R&D concentrated on the isolator for the split-seconds lever (with the integrated swan’s neck that serves as an isolator spring, the cap on the split-seconds column wheel has now been given an additional function as well), and on the mechanism for reducing the offset between the split-seconds and chronograph hands. This achievement was even more challenging in that the new split-seconds isolator mechanism consists of 42 parts and with a height of 1.7 mm. As with all of the manufacture’s platinum watches, the case is marked with a flawless Top Wesselton diamond discreetly set between the lugs at 6 o’clock, where it is noticed only by the wearer.
In the category of grand complications, which includes tourbillons, minute repeaters, or split-seconds chronographs, the perpetual calendar unquestionably offers the greatest everyday utility because it always indicates the correct date by taking into account the different durations of the months. Perpetual calendars were coveted complications in Patek Philippe pocket watches dating back to the 19th century. And when wristwatches became fashionable, the Manufacture in Geneva was the first to miniaturize the ingenious calendar mechanism to such a degree that it would fit in cases for the wrist, which incidentally were much smaller then than they are today. The ultra-thin self-winding Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3940 has ranked among Patek Philippe’s most popular complicated watches for many years.
Now, the workshops are relaunching it in a format that emphasizes the brand’s heritage in perpetual calendars: the Ref. 5940 in an 18K-gold cushion-shaped case. Its caliber 240 Q movement is a masterpiece of technology crafted in its entirety in the manufacture’s ateliers for complicated watches. Composed of 275 individual parts, it is only 3.88 mm high, despite the fact that it is self-winding. The basic movement, Caliber 240 Q, launched in 1977, with a 22K-gold off-center mini-rotor recessed in the plate, already accounts for 2.53 mm. So merely 1.35 mm remain for the mechanical memory that spans an entire 4-year cycle and at the same time emulates the lunar orbit. The rate accuracy of the movement – responsible for timekeeping precision – is impressive as well. It ranges from -3 to +2 seconds per day as stipulated by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal for all mechanical movements with diameters of over 20 mm. This beats the values required for officially certified chronometers. This stunning rate accuracy is celebrated on a dial that deserves the attribute timelessly elegant in every respect. The Ref. 5940 has a grained, cream-colored surface that perfectly matches the gold hue of the case and is framed by a black transfer-printed railway-track minute scale that faithfully follows the contours of the bezel. Applied Breguet numerals as well as slender, leaf-shaped hands in gold indicate the time, accompanied by three subsidiary dials for the calendar displays. At 9 o’clock: the day of the week and the 24-hour dial. At 3 o’clock: the month and leap-year cycle. At 6 o’clock: the analog date and the moon phases. All indications are well organized and crisply legible, as is customary at Patek Philippe.

 

 

Ref. 5204  Split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar
Case: 950 platinum, display back with sapphire-crystal window and interchangeable solid-platinum back, Top Wesselton diamond in the case at 6 o’clock Diameter: 40mm Movement: manually wound mechanical movement (Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q with 35h power reserve, Patek Philippe Seal), split-seconds chronograph with two column wheels, 496 parts (of which 182 for the perpetual calendar and 42 for the split-seconds mechanism with isolator) Functions: chronograph and split-seconds hands, jumping 30-minute counter and subsidiary seconds, perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date, moon phases. Dial: 18K gold, silvery opalescent, 12 applied hour markers in black-oxidized gold, subsidiary dials, off-center, circular guilloché pattern Water-resistance: 30m Strap: alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matt black, fold-over clasp in platinum

 

Ref. 5940 Ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar
Case: Cushion-shaped case in 18K yellow gold, cambered sapphire glass, sapphire-crystal snap back and interchangeable solid snap back in 18K yellow gold Dimensions: 44.60 x 37.00mm Movement: ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement (caliber 240 Q, 48h power reserve), recessed 22K gold minirotor, unidirectional winding, Patek Philippe Seal Functions: Perpetual calendar with analog displays for the date, day of the week, month, and leap-year cycle, moon phases. Dial: cream-colored, grained, day of the week, month, and date hands in 18K yellow gold, 24h and leap-year-cycle hands in 18K. gold black oxidized gold Water-resistance: 30m Strap:  Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matt black, prong buckle in 18K yellow gold

 

Because women love the notion of forever
The growing affinity of women with mechanical watches and complicated functions is among the particularly delightful trends in the domain of horology. This predilection couldn’t be accomodated in a better way than by a perpetual calendar, a grand complication that qualifies as an incarnation of eternity with its functionality, lasting value, reliability across generations, timelessly elegant design, and enduring array of diamonds. The workshops’ design team and the complications ateliers spared no effort to endow this complicated timepiece with an irresistibly feminine personality. All of the elements of new Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar reflect feminine poise, from the classic round Calatrava case in 18K rose gold and the gracefully curved lugs to the shimmering creamy white dial, the interchangeable mink gray and royal purple alligator straps, the lovely bezel, and the clasp set with precious diamonds that deserve to be called a girl’s best friend. The dimensions of the case are also ideal for the feminine wrist. Because elegance begins with the movement, it features the legendary caliber 240 Q (see former page) assembled in the manufacture’s ateliers for complicated watches. This ultra-thin and strikingly elegant perpetual calendar model enriches Patek Philippe’s collection of ladies’ watches with an attractive newcomer that joins what is probably the world’s most comprehensive portfolio of regularly produced complicated watches for women. Vastly popular among women, the moon-phase complication comes alive again in a perfectly proportioned timepiece with the Ref. 4968. The elegant round case with the precious white or black mother-of-pearl dial is decorated with a stunning complement of 273 diamonds that spiral around the bezel and the caseband. The new manually wound movement features a highly precise moon-phase display.

 

 

Ref. 4968 Moon-phase complication
Case: white or rose gold, bezel and case set with 273 graduated size diamonds in a spiral (~2.12 ct), sapphire crystal case back Diameter: 33.3mm Movement: mechanical manually wound movement (Caliber 215 PS LU, max. 48h power reserve, Patek Philippe Seal) Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, moon phases Dial: black mother-of-pearl (white gold) or white mother-of-pearl dial (rose gold), engraved spiral decoration, gold applied numerals Water resistance: 30m Strap: alligator with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny gray (white gold) or shiny taupe (rose gold), prong buckle set with 32 diamonds (~0.25 ct)

 

Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar
Case: 18K rose gold (4N), cambered sapphire crystal glass, bezel with 68 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.68 ct, snap back in 18K rose gold and interchangeable sapphire-crystal display back. Diameter: 35,10mm Movement: ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement (caliber 240 Q, 48h power reserve), recessed 22K gold minirotor, unidirectional winding, Patek Philippe Seal Functions: perpetual calendar with analog displays for the date, day of the week, month, and leap-year cycle, moon phases Dial : white opalescent, thin leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold Water resistance: 30m Strap: Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny mink gray, prong buckle in 18K rose gold, diamond-set. Additional handstitched alligator strap with square scales in royal purple