The new Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements collection invites women to rediscover the beauty of the ornaments of the world, beating to the rhythm of a precious and technical watch calibre. While the first entirely openworked Vacheron Constantin calibre appeared in 1924, the Manufacture was a pioneer in this field of stylistic research, since the first watch produced by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755 already featured an openworked and engraved balance-cock. Openworking is more than a purely aesthetic approach in itself, as it induces additional complexity at each stage compared with a solid caliber. Everything begins with a lengthy consideration of the movement that is to be openworked as much as possible so as to reveal its inner beauty. This calls upon the full wealth of experience of the finest master-watchmakers, since it involves achieving a subtle balance between hollowing out as much of the material as possible, while ensuring that the calibre remains perfectly functional. Once this subtle balance has been found, the artisans take over, marking the start of a long period of patient, accurate and rigorously disciplined endeavours.

 

With the Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements – India manuscript, the master-enameller has expressed the vivacity and richness of Indian illustrations through a profusion of intense enamels surrounding the openworked calibre, like the floral motifs decorating the margins of ancient oriental writings. The contours of its décor are first traced using the champlevé technique to create cavities separated by thin gold partitions in order to apply the enamels. The ethereal caliber of the Ottoman architecture watch is magnificently reflected by the chamfered pink gold moucharaby (wooden lattice) motif formed by the dial and of which every edge is delicately beveled by hand. Daintily perched on a natural white mother-of-pearl base, the gold gridwork studded with half-pearl beads echoes the majesty of the scrolling patterns in Middle Eastern architecture. On the French lacework timepiece, guillochage, Grand Feu enamelling and gem-setting stage the patient and dextrous craftsmanship performed with the crochet needle or the spindle in the ancestral tradition of French-style embroideries. Finally, glyptics, gemstone cloisonné work and engraving characterise the Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements – Chinese embroidery. Like the silk thread Chinese embroideries embellished with precious fabrics the graceful elegance of the stones cut and sculpted according to the glyptic art are adorned with finely engraved gold leaves and pistils.

 

 

A masterful demonstration of Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in the field of decoration, the openworking of the ultra-slim Calibre 1003 in 18K gold – a mere 1.64 mm thin – transforms it into an incredible lacework of engraved wheel trains. The feat consists in withdrawing a maximum of material without affecting the vital parts that ensure the smooth running of the watch. Setting the final touch to the work, all the bridges are hand-drawn with a file, while every single part is patiently hand-chamfered, decorated and fashioned in traditional manner to form an ideally feather-light composition. The Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements watches bear the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, just too does the Mécaniques Ajourées collection evoked below and pictured right.

 

To achieve the Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements watches, watchmakers and artisans have laid new milestones in the age-old art of hand engraving. Rather than using a bocfil or tiny handsaw to cut out the smooth surface of the mainplate and bridges before drawing them out with a file and chamfering them, the engraving artisans have carefully chased the parts around their entire circumference so as to create a true sculpture with its own volume and depth. Furthermore, the perilous exercise of Grand Feu enamelling was compounded by another difficulty : that of achieving one of the shades most difficult to create with Grand Feu enamel : a deep and opaque black. In its High Jewelry version, the Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées welcomes another artistic craft into its fascinating orchestration : gem-setting.

 

 

Offering an epic journey between continents, Vacheron Constantin stages a new themed exhibition dedicated to the history of watchmaking adornments in its Geneva boutique on the Quai de l’Ile

The art of adorning watches dates back to the very origins of watchmaking. In the 16^th century, during the wars of religion, the wearing of decorative and ostentatious objects was banished by Jean Calvin – a decision that led goldsmiths to find other ways of expressing their art, since watches were not considered as jewelry… This naturally boosted luxury horology to offer timepieces that were not only technical but also precious, and would later forge the renown of Geneva’ famous Fabrique. The cabinotiers of the era called upon the talents of jewelers enamellers in creating beautifully adorned models each more elegant than the next, in a fascinating dialogue with the various artistic movements and influences of the era. Inspired by dreams of far-off lands and a will to cultivate openness towards the wider world, throughout its almost 260 years of existence Vacheron Constantin has consistently cultivated a powerful attachment to these artistic crafts. In this exhibition running till October and opened to the public, the world’s oldest watch Manufacture in continuous operation is staging around 40 historical pieces – selected from the 1,200 in its private collection – illustrating various major artistic movements. A fascinating tour testifying to consummate mastery of specific skills and a rarely equalled degree of creativity in the field of decorative arts – a signature feature of the Geneva school of watchmaking.

 

 

France

1909 – Lady’s pendant watch, yellow gold, translucent enamel on guilloché back, platinum and diamond floral-pattern appliques. Silvered dial.

 

Late 19^th century openworked architecture

1926 – Pocket watch, 18K white gold, rock crystal, enamel and onyx cabochon crown. German silver skeleton movement. N° 11131

 

India

1831 – Pocket watch, yellow gold, champlevé enamelled case, in line engraving. Guilloché dial. N° 10450

 

Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements French lace

Case : 18K white gold, diamond-set bezel (64 round-cut diamonds, 0.89 ct), sapphire crystal caseback, water resistant to 30m Diameter : 37mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (Vacheron Constantin 1003SQ caliber, 31h power reserve), 117 components, hand-engraved, 1.64mm thick Functions : hours, minutes Dial : hand-guilloché and translucent Grand Feu enamelling, openworked 18K gold plate, setting of blue and pink sapphire & diamonds (13 sapphires for 0.06 ct & 40 round-cut diamonds for 0.13 ct) Strap : purple Mississippiensis alligator leather, stitched-tip, square scales with diamond-set half Maltese cross-shaped buckle (21 round-cut diamonds, 0.21 ct) Limited edition : 20 engraved & numbered pieces

 

Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements Indian manuscript

Case : 18K 5N pink gold, diamond-set bezel (64 round-cut diamonds, 0.89 ct), polished ring, transparent sapphire crystal caseback, water resistant to 30m Diameter : 37mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (Vacheron Constantin 1003SQ caliber, 31h power reserve), 117 components, hand-engraved, 1.64mm thick  Functions : hours, minutes  Dial : Grand Feu champlevé enamelling and hand-engraving Strap : blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, stitched-tip, square scales with diamond-set half Maltese cross-shaped buckle  (21 round-cut diamonds, 0.21 ct) Limited edition : 20 engraved & numbered pieces

 

Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements Chinese embroidery

Case : 18K 5N pink gold, diamond-set bezel (64 round-cut diamonds, 0.89 ct), diamond-set ring (60 round-cut diamonds, 0.20 ct), sapphire crystal caseback, water resistant to 30m Diameter : 37mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (Vacheron Constantin 1003SQ caliber, 31h power reserve), 117 components, hand-engraved, 1.64mm thick Functions : hours, minutes Dial : hand-engraving stone-cloisonné (pink opal), glyptic of ruby, garnet and cuprite (1.40 ct) Strap : burgundy Mississippiensis alligator leather, stitched-tip, square scales with diamond-set half Maltese cross-shaped buckle (21 round-cut diamonds, 0.21 ct) Limited edition : 20 engraved & numbered pieces

 

Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements Ottoman architecture

Case : 18K 5N pink gold, diamond-set bezel (64 round-cut diamonds, 0.89 ct), knurled ring,  transparent sapphire crystal caseback, water resistant to 30m Diameter : 37mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (Vacheron Constantin 1003SQ caliber, 31h power reserve), 117 components, hand-engraved, 1.64mm thick Functions : hours, minutes Dial : white mother-of-pearl under an openworked 18K gold plate, hand-chamfered and adorned with applied half-pearls  Strap :  black Mississippiensis alligator leather, stitched-tip, square scales with diamond-set half Maltese cross-shaped buckle (21 round-cut diamonds, 0.21 ct)  Limited edition : 20 engraved & numbered pieces

 

Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées

Case : 18K white gold, (available with diamond-set bezel with 42 baguette-cut diamonds, 2ct), sapphire crystal caseback, water resistant to 30m Diameter : 40mm Movement : hand-wound mechanical movement (Vacheron Constantin 4400SQ caliber, 65h power reserve), 127 components, hand-engraved, 1.64mm thick Functions : hours, minutes Dial : black Grand Feu opaque enamelled external ring, openworked Roman numerals on an 18K gold ring Strap : black  Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, stitched-tip, large square scales