In the midst of a frantic race for exclusivity and technical sophistication, the 2000s witnessed the emergence of all manner of improbably named alloys. Watch enthusiasts were thus introduced to Zalium (aluminium + zirconium) by Harry Winston, Alusic as in the RM 09 by Richard Mille, along with metals named Hublonium (aluminium/magnesium) and Zenithium (titanium + aluminium + niobium). Slowly but surely, they have proven their relevance and now, after a brief pause, the invention train is once again underway – which is hardly surprising considering that the wellspring of solutions stemming from the aeronautical, automotive and space industries is far from being exhausted.

 

Up-and-coming generation

The alloys of the previous decade are thus being challenged by a new generation of materials targeting the same objectives of increased hardness, lightness and sturdiness. We have learnt that silicon is in fact a high-performance metal in which Roger Dubuis has clad three versions of its Quatuor timepiece. The Richard Mille Rm 52-01 also features TZP – an ultra-light material composed of yttrium-stabilised zirconium that is also exceptionally scratch-resistant. The same goes for the Powerlite by Maurice Lacroix with its particularly sophisticated composition combining cutting-edge metals and ceramics.

 

 

From flowerpots to the space age

Ceramics, a broad family of materials used for everything from flowerpots to spacecraft shielding, is shaking up our view of materials. Its presence in an alloy such as Cermet by Jaeger-Lecoultre creates an “intermetallic” compound featuring ceramic particles in a metal matrix, thus enhancing its mechanical properties. Hublot exploits the astonishing properties of ceramics in its Magic Gold. Molten pure gold is poured into a porous boron carbide (ceramic powder) structure, resulting in an 18-carat gold alloy (75% pure gold) that is twice as resistant to abrasion as the finest high-tech steels.

 

Transmutation

Composites have experienced spectacular successive breakthroughs that are gradually eliminating any remaining flaws. The carbon nanotube composite used in the Richard Mille RM 027-01 combines record lightness with mechanical sturdiness such that Rafael Nadal wins tournaments with this model strapped to his wrist. Thanks to a new formula and a new hardening process, the polyepoxide resin in the HYT H1 AZO is three times more resistant and four times lighter than titanium. The most striking example of all is that of carbon fibre – a light and supple material that unfortunately tends to scratch and to snap under pressure. TAG Heuer has thus borrowed the Carbon Matrix Concept from the aeronautical industry. Stacked fibres are held in a resin which, once fired, forms a light yet hard machinable block. These new options are opening up fascinating prospects and securing astonishing gains in terms of both comfort and reliability. Nonetheless, very few are liable to become commonplace, since the brands are keen to maintain an exclusive touch – especially since these materials are incredibly hard to machine. Steel, gold and titanium will thus doubtless retain their supremacy for a long time to come.

 

The case of the RM 27-01 is made from a carbon nanotube composite and the entire watch weighs just 19 grams.

 

HYT H1 Azo : a case made from a fluorescent composite that is four times harder than titanium.

 

The CMC by TAG Heuer made from an ultra-light machinable carbon that is infinitely more resistant than the carbon fibre from which it originates.

 

The Deepsea Cermet by Jaeger-LeCoultre combines ceramics with aluminium.