The chronograph, the traditional way of measuring elapsed times, joins the contemporary DB28 collection. Fitted with De Bethune’s absolute clutch system, the DB28 Maxichrono is a precise and reliable time-measuring instrument where traditional heritage and modern styling coexist in harmony to proclaim a strong identity. The juxtapositions extend to the surprising combination of a round case with openworked floating lugs on springs – a patented system that adapts them precisely to the shape of the wrist and its movements. The rose gold case makes a sharp contrast with the blackness of its floating lugs in hand-polished, oxidised zirconium. Even the indications are expressed through dichotomies: contemporary skeleton hands in polished black oxidized steel tell the time of day. They point to black numerals in a modern typeface, their presence reinforced by their colour and size. Elapsed times are recorded more conventionally with hands that are shaped, polished and blued in the traditional way over a flame. Numerals borrowed from marine chronometers complete the indications of the chronograph counters. Yet the DB28 Maxichrono remains a modern chronograph with a button paired with the crown controlling the five hands mounted coaxially in the centre of the dial. With three different types of clutch behind three semi-independent systems controlled by three column-wheels thus govern the different chronograph elapsed-time counters, De Bethune’s absolute clutch aims to improve the performance of chronographs by correcting the faults identified in current mechanisms. This patented mechanism makes the most of the advantages of the horizontal and vertical clutch systems, while eliminating their faults. It thus benefits from a marked reduction in the friction that affects the movement both when the chronograph is running and when it is functioning without the chronograph engaged. On the back, the window on the caliber DB2030 displays the architectural layout of the movement’s bridges in rose gold and polished steel.
In its research on materials and new processes, De Bethune saw the choice to machine zirconium as a natural and sustainable alternative for the new interpretation of its flagship model, both for its properties and its color. The hardness of the metal, together with stable oxidation that is unaffected by daily changes in temperature, are twin assets that guarantee the resistance and durability of the exterior of a timepiece. Despite the mirror-polished shiny look of its dial, the DB28 Dark Shadows nonetheless opts for a satin-brushed zirconium case creating an all-matt effect. Adorned with its famous crown at 12 o’clock, the DB28 which is known for the surprising lightness of its case and the comfort of its floating lugs – a patented system that adapts to the size of the wrist and its various movements – is as supple as ever, since the lightness of titanium is replaced by that of zirconium. Its dial opens a window onto the movement, displaying a wealth of nuances including multiple ways in which the light plays across the material and its different finishes to reveal a variety of shades ranging from anthracite grey to intense black. A touch of ruthenium and hand-polished blackened steel accompany the sandblasted bridges and the refined elegance of Côtes de Genève reinterpreted by De Bethune. As one can see from careful observation of the sky, moon phases are read off on an exclusive display by means of a palladium and anthracite zirconium hand-polished steel sphere spinning on its axis and boasting a degree of precision equivalent to a mere one-day difference every 122 years. The DB28 is equipped with Caliber DB2115 which is endowed with the numerous technological innovations developed and produced within the Manufacture. Its precision is further consolidated by the self-regulating twin barrel and by the presence within the regulating organ of a silicon/palladium balance wheel and a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve, protected by the triple pare-chute system.
Constantly repeated gestures convey the heritage of time-honoured experience
The Manufacture De Bethune discovers and explores the new horizons of science and technology, yet returns to the mechanical and artistic essentials. Thus its interpretation of the perpetual calendar is imbued with poetry and combines horological finesse with its cutting-edge mechanisms by uniting moon phases, a star-studded sky and a perpetual calendar within an exceptional timepiece. Initially presented with a rose gold case, this avant-garde mechanism within a poetic timepiece now comes in a matt black interpretation in a limited edition.
For the DB25 QP, De Bethune has developed the automatic mechanical Caliber DB 2324 QP, benefiting from the latest research and technology of the Manufacture and notably including a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon-phase display featuring a “1 day in 122 years” level of accuracy, a double self-regulating barrel, a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system and a titanium/platinum balance. The finesse of the decorations and the purity of the hand-guilloché anthracite dial with its 12 radiating sectors accentuate the readability, notably based on the set of annular appliques delineating the subdials and the chapter ring. At 12 o’clock, a titanium and blued steel sphere sits enthroned amid a star-studded sky also incorporating a leap-year indicator. The date is read off on a subdial at 6 o’clock, while the day of the week and month apertures are respectively positioned at 9 and 3 o’clock. The round case is inspired by a drum shape and features slender and resolutely classic lines, subtly enlivened by the hollowed lugs characteristic of the DB25 collection.
DB28 Maxichrono
Case : 5N rose gold, short or long patented floating lugs* in mirror-polished blacked zirconium, sapphire crystal case back, water resistant to 30m Diameter : 45 mm Movement : mechanical hand-wound movement (DB2030 caliber, 120h power reserve), 384 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration, self-regulating twin barrel*, silicon/white gold balance wheel – balance-spring with flat terminal curve *, silicon escape wheel*,De Bethune absolute clutch * Functions : hours, minutes, mono-pusher chronograph with 24h, 60mn and 60sec counters Dial : silver-toned, the architecture of the dial is constructed on different levels to maximise visibility : from the centre to the periphery : central hours counter – hours inner ring – minutes ring and minutes counter – outer ring with chronograph seconds indication. 5 curved central hands – hand-polished Strap : extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle Limited edition : 20 pieces per year
* Manufacture De Bethune innovations and registered patents
DB28 Dark Shadows
Case : sandblasted anthracite zirconium, short or long patented floating lugs* in sandblasted anthracite zirconium, sapphire crystal case back, water resistant to 30m Diameter : 45 mm Movement : mechanical hand-wound movement (DB2115 caliber, 144h power reserve), 299 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration, self-regulating twin barrel*, silicon/white gold balance wheel – balance-spring with flat terminal curve *, silicon escape wheel*, spherical moon-phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years * Functions : hours, minutes, spherical moon-phase indication, performance indication, power-reserve indication on the back Dial : black, anthracite zirconium mirror-polished hours ring, spherical hour-markers in black mirror-polished steel, black steel parts,black matt ruthenium, Côtes De Bethune, performance-zone read-off between 2 and 3 o’clock, De Bethune spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and anthracite zirconium polished at 6 o’clock Strap : extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle Limited edition : 50 pieces
* Manufacture De Bethune innovations and registered patents
DB25 QP
Case : sandblasted anthracite zirconium, sapphire crystal case back, water resistant to 30m Diameter : 44 mm Movement : self-winding mechanical movement (DB2324 QP caliber, 120h power reserve), 420 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration, self-regulating twin barrel*, silicon/white gold balance wheel – balance-spring with flat terminal curve *, silicon escape wheel*, titanium/platinum oscillating weight * secured by a central shock-absorbing system device, spherical moon-phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years * Functions : Hours, minutes, date at 6 o’clock, perpetual calendar indicating days at 9 o’clock, months at 3 o’clock, De Bethune spherical moon-phase and leap-year indicator subdial at 12 o’clock Dial : silver-toned hand-guilloché dial with apertures indicating days of the week and months, subdial indicating days of the month at 6 o’clock, De Bethune star-studded sky in flame-blued steel with gold stars, hand-polished flame-blued steel Strap : extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle Limited edition : 50 pieces
* Manufacture De Bethune innovations and registered patents
