de Grisogono : De Grisogono once again demonstrates …

New Retro N02

Case : rose gold, black-lacquered gold crown, 2 curved sapphire crystals, water-resistant to 30m Size : 50mm wide x 44mm long Movement : self-winding mechanical movement (Caliber DG 10-01, 42h power reserve), oscillating weight in gold with new blackened appearance adorned with elegant openwork scrolling pattern Functions : hours, minutes Dial : black, Super-LumiNova® markers Strap : black alligator leather, large square scales with a saddle-stitch finish, triple folding clasp in rose gold

 

New Retro N03

Case : white gold, black-lacquered gold crown, 2 curved sapphire crystals, water-resistant to 30m Size : 50mm wide x 44mm long Movement : self-winding mechanical movement (Caliber DG 10-01, 42h power reserve), oscillating weight in gold with new blackened appearance adorned with elegant openwork scrolling pattern Functions : hours, minutes Dial : black, Super- LumiNova® markers Strap : black alligator leather, large square scales with a saddle-stitch finish, triple folding clasp in white gold

With this creation, de GRISOGONO succeeds in “squaring the circle” by revealing a new watch that bears within it all the wisdom of the passing of time, and which provides its own way of wearing time and history on the wrist. A simple design, made for modern-day individuals of taste and infused with a sense of broad panoramas evoking the chic style of the Fifties. Consistently ahead of his time, founder Fawaz Gruosi knows how to honor the past while creating the future. Going far beyond merely transposing a vintage style by giving it a modern touch, this aesthete and visionary has — as always — followed his instinct and his vision. “This collection is entirely rooted in the idea that the whole concept of wearing a watch is similar to wearing a chic and timeless bespoke outfit. This also explains why it took me so long to achieve perfection in the shape, style and proportions of this watch. A piece that subtly combines vintage delights with modern touches, the New Retro encapsulates values relating both to vision and tradition. I wanted the New Retro to be unforgettable, for it to exude a feeling of elegance and the wealth of the past, as well as expressing a taste for things that are beautiful in their own right, things that are never lacking in style.”

 

The clear, simple lines of its large, rectangular case are balanced with gently sensuous rounded angles. A minimalist, uncompromising design that soberly expresses time in a two-handed model. A watch with zero horological complications. A watch revealed through unexpected details. A black-lacquered gold crown, positioned at 12 o’clock, on which the de GRISOGONO coat of arms appears in shades of gold. Cut-outs at 3 and 9 o’clock create a transparent effect and the impression that both the dial and the movement are suspended in a glass cage. The two curved sapphire crystals are identical and subtly connected by a thin gold band. This was a veritable construction challenge overcome by de GRISOGONO. Meticulously crafted right the way down to the finest details, this watch representing the ultimate in elegant timepieces is infinitely soft to the touch and radiates an extremely sensual smooth appearance.

 

Meanwhile, the color palette expresses classical dress sense through an off-white dial with creamy undertones and a deep house-signature black tone. The most iconic version features an original and daring color scheme in the form of subtly graded shades of green that convey the impression of a dial that has survived the passage of time. This unique hue strikes a powerful contrast with the Super-LumiNova® markers featuring rich color combinations that infuse the blue with a shimmering iridescence. These nuances are strongly reminiscent of Zellige, the famous enamel-covered terra cotta mosaic-patterned tilework from the Mediterranean and Middle Eastern regions so dear to the creator of this watch. The result is a vintage-effect dial evoking the inimitable patina of time and giving the piece its strong, uncontrived character. In order to achieve the accuracy of color and the depth of nuance sought by its designer, the dial features a matt, sand-blasted finish. Its retro look is accentuated by the fact that it is reminiscent of the dials on old alarm clocks – made of paper painted in light colors with contrasting hour-markers that are extremely pronounced and readable – discolored by time. Powered by a black PVD-coated self-winding movement, the New Retro displays a highly elegant gold, openworked oscillating weight reprising de GRISOGONO’s emblematic scrolling motif. Its impeccable style continues right down to the shape of its movement, whose mainplate has been incorporated into a base that is an identical reproduction of the shape of the watch. Dressed in five different outfits, it remains true to the timeless spirit of the modern dandy. Its refined aura imbues it with a strong feeling of kinship with the Fifties look, the ultimate expression of sartorial elegance.

 

 

New Retro W S01

Case : rose gold set with 301 white diamonds (4.30 ct ) and crown at 12 o’clock, sapphire crystal case back Size : 42,3×39,6mm Movement : self-winding mechanical movement (40h power reserve) Dial : off-white lacquered set with 94 white diamonds 0.90 ct, pink 5N Arabic numerals and Dauphine hands Strap : Galuchat with de Grisogono triple folding clasp set with 112 white diamonds (0.75 ct)

 

New Retro W S03

Case : rose gold set with 301 rubies (5.70ct), crown at 12 o’clock – black rhodium on set grains, sapphire crystal case back Size : 42,3×39,6mm Movement : self-winding mechanical movement (40h power reserve) Dial : white dial with dark pink Arabic numerals, pink hands strap : Galuchat strap with pink gold triple folding clasp set with 112 rubies (1ct ), black rhodium on set grain

 

Vortice ring

Ring in pink gold set with 87 white diamonds : 4.45 Ct

 

Vortice earrings

Earrings in pink gold set with 78 white diamonds : 4.65 Ct

 

Ladies get their very own New Retro

The New Retro respects male-female parity with a ladies’ version interpreted in four colors and gemsetting types. The feat is all the more impressive on these feminine variations in that the slimmer size of the case renders the operations involved in crafting it particularly tricky. The dial with its curved sides, subtly enveloped by the rounded sapphire crystal, must remain just as legible and pleasing as before. The lateral gold band serving as a link between the front/back sapphire crystals invites a gentle caress. This wealth of details does not however immediately catch the gaze, which is instead initially drawn to the sparkle of the colorful stones that the expert hands of the de GRISOGONO gemsetters have carefully assembled in three different cuts. Rubies, sapphires and emeralds set the tone on either side of the pink or white gold case, while the galuchat strap and dial numerals play the chameleon in a precious colorful mimetic effect. The show continues on the back of the watch, featuring scroll-shaped cut-outs in the oscillating weight of the self-winding featuring decorations crafted in-house by de GRISOGONO.

 


Rédacteur en chef des magazines GMT et Skippers dont il est le cofondateur depuis 2000 et 2001, Brice Lechevalier est aussi à la tête de WorldTempus depuis son intégration dans la société GMT Publishing, qu’il dirige en tant que co-actionnaire. Il a par ailleurs créé le Geneva Watch Tour en 2012 et conseille le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève depuis 2011. Côté nautisme, il édite aussi le magazine de la Société Nautique de Genève depuis 2003, tout en étant membre fondateur des SUI Sailing Awards (les prix officiels de la voile suisse) depuis 2009 et du Concours d’Elégance de bateaux à moteur du Cannes Yachting Festival depuis 2015.

Review overview
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